Q: My hair is very thick and wavy when it’s wet, but as soon as it dries I loose most of the wave pattern. What can I do to hold the curly look after my wash-and-go dries?

A: The secret to defined curls is moisture! That’s why your curls go so hard in the shower and why Jheri Curls, well, worked… you had to keep that joint wet to keep the curls popping! Now, I’m not advocating for you to walk around with a perpetually wet head, but you must find a way to retain the goodness from your wash day and lock it in. Here are my tried-and-true tips to bring all the curls to the yard.

1. Moisturize Your Situation: If you wash and style once a week, you need to deep treat once a week. All you need is your conditioner, a plastic cap and the heat you’ll generate from moving around. Nothing special. But if you’re feeling fancy, you can mix some oils, yogurt and honey into your conditioner for an added punch and/or sit under a hooded dryer. Also, avoid shampoos that contain sulfates as they strip your hair of natural oils and dry you out which is the opposite of what we’re going for here. Overuse of sulfates will send your curls into hiding, even in the shower. So yeah, no. Opt for conditioner washes or shampoos with detergents of the coco betaine variety. (Here are more tips on curl-friendly shampoos.) Finally, remember that hair health starts on the inside. Drink your water and eat a healthy diet!

2. Define Your Situation: Style on soaking wet, conditioner laden hair. My most defined curls happen when I leave my rinse-out conditioner in from the shower. After cleansing my hair, I apply a conditioner like Tresemme Naturals, finger detangle and only rinse a little bit of it out. I leave in the rest, get out of the shower and BOOM— curls galore. The moisture from the conditioner will not only leave you with more curls when it finally dries, but will also give you some added hang time, as the weight of the conditioner will reduce shrinkage a bit.

3. Hold Your Situation: While some women find that conditioners have ample ingredients to hold their curls, others find they need a little extra help from gels. You say your curls are thick, so you may need to start experimenting with gels. Smooth or scrunch in some gel (preferably one containing aloe vera) carefully and without disturbing the curl too much. Eco Styler Gel is a popular one in the natural community. 

After following the three steps above, allow your hair to dry undisturbed. The more you touch it the more it frizzes you will get so “no touchy”! If you want more tips, check out my Fall 2012 routine where I go into excruciating detail about how I defined and lock in my curls on wet hair.

Good luck!

Q: Nikki, I love wearing wash-and-go’s but my hair always looks too stringy. How can I make my naturally fine strands appear to have more volume?

A: My natural pattern consists of super skinny, piecey ‘s-waves’ with a sprinkling of coils here and there. While I totally love my stringy and defined waves and curls, I sometimes try to smooth a few of them together to achieve a chunkier look. But no matter how heavy or tacky the styling cream or gel, the manufactured clumps always break up. My waves do what they do and they don’t give a sh*t. While I’m usually cool with that, on some real levels, I’d appreciate a few clumps sometimes!

Now generally for me, clumpier wash-and-go’s mean a reduction in volume, but I recently discovered a way to get the best of both worlds by styling on damp hair with a tacky yet moisturizing curl cream. 

Here’s what I did:

Like with my successful chunky twist-outs of month’s past, I applied my products to damp hair rather than in the shower on soaking wet hair. I t-shirt plopped clean, naked hair for five minutes and then air-dried for 10 minutes. I tested the Living Proof Full Thickening Cream and SheaMoisture’s Coconut and Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie on the back of my hand before applying it to my hair to make sure they blended well together. (Otherwise, you could end up with white clumps in your hair. Fail.) The two were smooth as butter, so I applied the Living Proof first (about a quarter size amount to each half) and then smoothed the Shea Moisture over it into four sections. I didn’t rake it through my hair, I simply smoothed it on with the palms of both hands in a downward motion from root to tip. Finally, I finger curled and smoothed some of the top pieces and was excited at how easily my usually stringy curls held together thanks to the tackiness of the SheaMoisture Smoothie on my damp hair. I’ve got quite a bit of shrinkage, but it’s the good kind.

Q: Nikki, I’m so confused. I need help building a solid hair routine so I can finally see some progress, but I don’t know where to start. Do you have any sample regimens that aren’t too time-consuming yet effective?

A: 
I’ve initiated and maintained many natural hair routines over the years. It’s important to note that while no two heads are the same, and identical regimens may not produce similar results for everybody, being consistent with whatever you do will always yield the best results. Yep, all you have to do is develop a routine and product combo that works for you and stick to it. Be consistent!

Creating a reliable regimen comes with a bit of experimentation with products, techniques and timing. Danielle Faust of Ok Dani shares a few questions you should ask yourself to determine which regimen is best for you:

•How often will I wash/condition/moisturize?

•How often will I do treatments? (moisture/protein)

•What will I use to moisturize? (how does my hair react?)
•How often will I detangle?

•How much time do I have to devote to my healthy hair practices?

•How much effort do I want to put into my regimen?

Regardless of your regimen, I always advise to start off with a fresh trim. It’ll make detangling and styling easier and also help you maintain hard-earned length. Below, I’ve compiled hair regiments from past CurlyNikki Hair Idols that you can build on and tweak as you see fit.

Dry Bunnin’

1. Wash your hair weekly or bi-weekly with a low-sulfate or moisturizing shampoo

2. Rinse and apply an instant conditioner as you gently detangle (fingers first, then with a wide tooth comb).

3. Follow up with a moisturizing deep treatment and heat (such as a hot towel, steamer, or dryer cap).

4. Rinse thoroughly and generously apply your leave-in conditioner.

5. Place your hair in chunky twists or braids to stretch it out.

6. Seal your ends with an oil (castor, shea butter, olive oil, etc.).

7. Allow to dry overnight.

8. Remove twists, and using a Goody Ouchless Scrunchy, place hair into a loose, secure bun (high, low, to the side, messy… do you!), being mindful of your edges.

9. At night, you can either (1) remove the bun, moisturize, and twist the hair, (2) loosen the bun, apply pomade to edges, and tie with a scarf, or (3) remove the bun, moisturize length, re-bun, apply pomade to your edges and tie down with a scarf.

Wet Bunnin’

1. Wash your hair weekly with a low-sulfate, moisturizing shampoo, or co-wash.

2. Rinse and apply instant conditioner as you gently detangle (fingers first, then with a wide tooth comb).

3. Follow up with a moisturizing deep treatment and heat.

4. Rinse, and generously apply a leave-in conditioner in a raking motion to encourage curl definition.

5. Seal your ends with an oil (castor, shea butter, olive oil, etc.).

6. Pull hair into a high, loose yet secure bun using a Goody Ouchless Scrunchy, being careful not to stress your edges.

7. Smooth your edges with product of choice and your fingers (a light hold gel is perfect).

8. Tie on a silk scarf for 10-30 minutes to help set your edges. To smooth your edges sans brush and gel, click here.

9. At night, you can either (1) remove the bun, moisturize, and twist the hair, (2) loosen the bun, apply pomade to edges, and tie with a scarf, or (3) remove the bun, moisturize length, re-bun, apply pomade to your edges, and tie down with a scarf.

Loose Twists or Braids Routine

1. Wash your hair weekly or bi-weekly with a low-sulfate, moisturizing shampoo, or co-wash. Some folks even rinse/co-wash in the twists or braids.

2. Rinse and apply instant conditioner as you gently detangle (fingers first, then with a wide tooth comb).

3. Follow up with a moisturizing deep treatment and heat.

4. Rinse, and generously apply a leave-in conditioner as you twist your hair. You may choose to use a styler to help hold the twists (a non-drying gel, or curl creme).

5. Twirl the end of the twist around your finger to encourage the curl and to keep it from unraveling.

6. Seal your ends with an oil (castor, shea butter, olive oil, etc.).

7. Allow to dry.

8. Allow the twists/braids to hang free or style in a protective updo.

9. At night, apply moisturizer as needed and seal. Re-twist/braid any frizzy ones. Sleep with your twists/braids secured under a satin bonnet. 




Wash & Go

1. As often as necessary, wash your hair with a low-sulfate, moisturizing shampoo or co-wash.

2. Rinse and apply instant conditioner as you gently detangle (fingers first, then with a wide tooth comb).

3. Follow up with a moisturizing deep treatment with heat.

4. Rinse, and generously apply a moisturizing leave-in conditioner and styler of choice in sections, using a raking motion to encourage definition (you may choose to leave in your rinse-out conditioner).

5. Seal your ends with an oil (castor, shea butter, olive oil, etc.).

6. Allow your hair to air-dry, or gently diffuse if you’re in a hurry.

7. At night, apply moisturizer as needed and either (1) pineapple, (2) gently twist or (3) don a bonnet.

Twist-out/Braid-out

1. Wash your hair weekly with a low-sulfate, moisturizing shampoo, or co-wash.

2. Rinse and apply instant conditioner as you gently detangle.

3. Follow up with a moisturizing deep treatment with heat.

4. Rinse, allow to dry for 15 minutes (or until just damp) and generously apply a leave-in conditioner as you twist or braid your hair. You may choose to use a styler to help hold the twists (a non-drying gel, or curl cream).

5. Twirl the end of the twist around your finger to encourage the curl and to keep it from unraveling (you can also secure each end with a roller).

6. Seal your ends with an oil (castor, shea butter, olive oil, etc.).

7. Allow to air dry overnight.

8. Carefully release the twists from the bottom up, fluff and style.

9. At night, apply moisturizer as needed and either (1)pineapple, (2) gently twist or (3) don a bonnet.

Q: Nikki, it’s getting cooler outside and I need to remix my hair routine for fall. Any suggestions?

A: Here’s a quick snapshot of what I call “The Tracee” — Ellis Ross, that is — as it incorporates several of her curl-defining tips.

1. An hour before I shower, I apply a deep conditioner/yogurt treatment to my dry hair and don a plastic cap. To generate heat, sometimes I’ll wear a beanie or my heat cap without microwaving it.

2. Hop in the shower and rinse.

3. Thoroughly saturate hair with water and divide into two sections (left and right).

4. Cleanse hair with co-wash or mild shampoo one side at a time. Rinse thoroughly.

5. Generously apply a slippery conditioner, usually Aussie Moist or Tresemme Naturals, to both sides in a smooshing motion.

6. Pass my head back under the water stream for a second, for better distribution and added slip.

7. Add even more conditioner

8. Clip the hair up and out of the way to complete shower rituals.

9. Take down the right side and section out the back piece near my neck. Pin up the rest.  I finger detangle thoroughly and then, using the Denman, brush through once or twice for smoothing and curl clumpage. The Denman creates what looks like finger waves on my conditioner-laden curls. I continue this step section by section. Sometimes, I create a hair sandwich where I’ll use one hand to hold the brush and the other hand to smooth the hair as I pull the brush through. I end up with about 6-8 sections per side.

10. Once all the hair on each side has been finger detangled and smoothed and clumped with the Denman, I rinse the right side.  I hold the clumped curls in the palm of my hand and stand under the shower stream, allowing the water to gently rinse away the conditioner.  I do the same on the left.  I rinse out 100% of the conditioner.

11. I eliminate excess water by smoothing my hair between my flat hands using what I call “the praying hands method.”

12. Finally, I apply my cream styler of choice in a smooshing motion (not raking, as I don’t want to disturb the curls I just created with the Denman) to the right side, then the left. I finger twirl any frizzy bits and smooth product down the length of any curls that didn’t clump, using my fingers like a flat iron. I usually sit under the dryer for 15 minutes to get things going and air dry the rest of the way. Sometimes, I’ll hit the roots with the blow dryer for extra hangage.

While I love this hair styling routine, I have to admit it does have its pros and cons:

Pros :

• Massive curl clumps — that Denman is a beast!
• Even definition
• Thorough detangling
• Decent drying time if you use a quick drying curl cream

Cons:

• The Denman, (aka Shredder) and I have a long and sordid history… a love/hate relationship, if you will. I’m pretty sure it caused split ends in the past, but I was also using it differently. I was using it to define my curls later in the styling routine on hair that was just damp with a little leave-in on it. I found that it had more drag and pulled more hair out, as well as left my roots very puffy. I’ve also used it as my sole detangling tool with disastrous results. Using it after finger detangling to clump my curls in the shower, protected by a thick layer of conditioner, may be the way to go. I’ll pay attention to my ends and keep y’all posted.
• The Denman leaves me shrinkier, even when wet, so you know what it is, lol.  My hair dries much shorter than usual, which is actually not a con for me because it exaggerates the shape of my cut.

This is just one version of my updated fall hair routine. For two more fresh fall hairstyling regimens, click here.  

Happy hairstyling!

Q: Nikki, do you take vitamins for your hair? If so, what kind?

A: Everyone knows a healthy body produces healthy hair. So to keep my situation running smoothly, I eat right, drink lots of water and take my vitamins. I actually take a prenatal, and not because of the myth that they help your hair grow faster and thicker (pregnancy hormones do that), but mostly out of habit. I started taking Rainbow Light One Prenatal (a food based vitamin — some argue that those are better than the ones that contain minerals and vitamins chemically derived in a lab) when I became preggers back in 2009, and continue to take it today. The price is right and you only have to take one a day. It’s chocked full of good stuff, like digestive enzymes, probiotics, and even the vitamins and minerals you’d commonly find in top shelf hair vitamins.

Two months ago I reintroduced Biotin into my regimen. Biotin promotes cell growth, the production of fatty acids and metabolism of fats. And last week, I started MSM again, as it lengthens the hair growth phase (which means that you keep more hair on your head). This combo along with my prenatal multi and healthy living habits contribute to my happy, healthy hair.

Q: How often do I seal my ends with oil? I have been doing it daily, but my hair feels sticky and oily

A: First, let’s catch folks up… Sealing is defined as the process in which you lock or “seal” moisture in the strands with an oil or butter. This extra layer of protection slows the inevitable evaporation of moisture from your hair. The moisture can refer to the water from your washday shower and/or the goodness of your water based (water listed as the first ingredient) moisturizer or conditioner.  Some folks only moisturize and seal on washday, while others find that they dry out quickly and must re-moisturize and seal their dry ends throughout the week. Still, others find that all they need is to add more oil to their ends to keep them supple, skipping the re-moisturizing step altogether.

Now to answer your question, how often one should moisturize and seal, varies from person to person. Also, the type of moisturizer and sealer varies. There is no right or wrong answer, only the regimen that works for you and your curls. If sealing your hair daily leaves you limp and greasy, then scale back a bit and try every other day, re-assess and scale back again if need be. You may also need to opt for lighter oils (choosing coconut oil over shea butter for example) or simply use a lighter hand and apply less oil.  

Remember the purpose of sealing is to lock in the moisture from wash day. If you find that your hair stays moisturized throughout the week until it’s time to re-wash, then all you need to worry about is protecting your hair at night. Folks that find they need to re-moisturize and seal daily to prevent a fire hazard haystack may have high-porosity strands which is discussed at length in this article.

So to sum things up, you must experiment, observe and take good notes! Only use and apply the techniques and products that best suit your hair. Wanda Sykes said it best, “figuring out what works for your hair is a damn science lab.”

Q: What products and tips would you recommend for taking care of my daughter’s natural hair?

A: Since my little Boogie wails and screams her way through wash day, we’ve limited the carnage to twice a month. In between washes, I use a spray bottle and its heavenly contents to keep her curls detangled, soft and moisturized. I noticed that plain water seemed to do more harm than good, and honestly, it’s hard to find the time to whip up our own ish. That being said, Blended Beauty’s Kick for Curls ($16) has changed our lives on some real levels.  I’ve tried hella detanglers and nothing compares to the slip, moisture and softening capabilities of this magical spritz.  It smells of sweet vanilla and cocoa and leaves her hair noticeably softer and detangled for three days before I have to re-apply.  I can use it alone to re-braid or re-puff her hair, or underneath their Happy Nappy Styles ($21), Curl Junkie’s Smoothing Lotion ($20) or Shea Moisture’s Curl Enhancing Smoothie ($10) for the days I want to really look like a “good mom.”  I have to constantly remind myself that the state of my child’s hair is not a visual representation of my mothering abilities.  Kids will be kids and Boog is a wild child… she turns cute little braids (which take me forever to do ’cause I’m terrible and she’s a squirmer) into puff balls in like 10 minutes flat.  Most days, I simply let it do what it do.  

Here’s the bottom line for new moms when it comes to your daughter’s hair:

1. Keep it simple. Your toddler’s hair shouldn’t be the source of stress for either of you.

2. Employ protective styles, reserving fros and puffs for special occasions.

3. Do her hair while she’s in the tub distracted by her toys, in the high chair distracted by food, or in front of the TV distracted by Dora.

4. Patience, my dear. Always practice patience.

5. Gush about her super-gorgeous, curly hair, let her pick out her favorite barrettes and engage her in the hairstyling ritual.  You’re building memories that will last a lifetime!

Q: Nikki, I have so many hair products, I’m really quite ashamed. How can I find products that work for me without accumulating more than I need? And what in the world am I to do with all these pomades and creams in my cabinet? Help!

A: Hello. My name is Nikki Walton and I’m a “product junkie.” 

If you’re a member of the online natural hair community, then real recognize real. It’s quite common and affects natural newbies and vets alike. For those of you not in the know, a product junkie (or PJ) is someone who compulsively purchases any and all hair care products in sight and is forever on a mission to find the next best thing.

Want to know if you’re a PJ? Here are a few telltale signs:

• Your bathroom is spilling over with half-used bottles and unopened and dusty jars of hair care products.
• If after reading one too many positive online reviews, you’re headed to the store to acquire that product, despite the late hour or inclement weather.
• If you often find yourself in the hair care aisle, for hours, despite your best efforts to shop for food.

Although one can run into some monetary and even relationship issues in the throes of PJ-ism, there are several benefits: (1) you’re a resource for the naturals in your circle, saving them time and money (2) natural hair care can at times, feel like an experiment, and trying new product combinations and ingredients keeps you on the cutting edge, and (3) it’s fun!

Below, find some tips to keep your product testing orderly and productive.

1. Process of Elimination: Yeah, the product testing process doesn’t work if you try everything at once. I’m definitely guilty of this. Please do your best to try one new product at a time so you can determine if it really works.

2. Take notes: Keep a journal and track your progress, as well as product successes and failures. This will help you with the above tip — keeping you on top of what worked beautifully and what failed epically. Also, eyeball those ingredients. You’ll see a pattern begin to take shape — products that consistently work for you will have similar ingredients. With this knowledge you can target, and even predict, the products that your hair will love.

3. Double duty: Look for products with multiple purposes. It’ll not only save you time on wash day, but your wallet too. I love stumbling upon a moisturizing and slippery leave-in conditioner that just so happens to hold my hair as well. The beauty of finding a rinse-out conditioner that works triple-duty as a deep conditioner or leave-in is oh-so-sweet. Give it time! Give yourself two to three weeks to determine if a product, product combo or regimen is working for you. Remember, only introduce one new product at a time.

4. Don’t be wasteful: To keep from tossing out woefully disappointing hair conditioners, I’ve been known to use them as shaving cream and at times, body gel. You’d be surprised at the effectiveness — many conditioners contain moisturizing agents and surfactants. Also, when trying to get that elusive last little bit of thick conditioner out of the bottom of the bottle, either cut that joint open or hold the opening under the shower stream for a second to allow some warm water in, seal it off with the palm of your hand, and give the bottle a shake with the other.  This action cuts the thick consistency and allows the rest of the product to be easily removed and greatly enjoyed as the runnier consistency makes for a slippier (is that a word?) experience. You can also gift your unwanted bounty to your curlfriends, or take them to the next meet-up in your area to swap it out! 

God Speed and Happy Product Shopping!

Nik

Q: Nikki, I have such a hard time when I wash my hair. What can I do to simplify my wash day?

A: Here are three additions to my natural hair routine that have changed the game and not only made wash day easier and less stressful, but also changed my hair for the better.

Health over styling– When I’m mindful of my hair’s health (moisture/protein balance), everything else falls into place. Folks are always super duper concerned about curl definition, but if your hair curls, then you’ll achieve the best definition on moisturized hair. I get the best hair days after deep treatments (DT). Which is one of the reasons why I do my best to DT at least once a week. So if we can re-calibrate and re-focus on the health of our tresses, the aesthetic will naturally follow. My favorite DT right now is any rich conditioner mixed with yogurt!

Finger detangling and styling– This helps me to not only achieve better definition but also improves length and volume retention. I have bigger and longer hair when I religiously opt for my 10 digits over any brush or comb. As far as detangling, it’ll take a bit of practice to master the technique. Just remember to do it in small sections, working from the ends up in a gentle manner. Don’t pull or rip at your hair, but gently remove shed hair and tangles. While I can finger detangle on dry hair successfully, I suggest beginners start on wet hair that’s soaked with conditioner in the shower. The power of the shower stream and slipperiness from your conditioner should make finger detangling a cinch. For styling a wash-and-go, use your fingers like a comb. The raking motion (which captures chunks of hair between my fingers) creates perfect little spirals. Using your fingers will keep more hair on your head and allow you to enjoy longer lengths. Some people liken using a comb or brush (especially on dry hair) to getting a trim! Yikes.

Pre-poo’ing– The cleansing process, while necessary, can be stressful on our delicate strands. Shampoo can strip hair of vital oils and leave strands rough and all the more tangly. A pre-poo is a treatment applied prior to shampooing that consists of oils and/or conditioners. It is usually performed to help the hair maintain necessary moisture during the drying shampoo process. Pre-poo treatments greatly reduce hygral fatigue — the expanding and contracting of hair as water enters and exits — and help maintain the structural integrity of the cuticle and cortex. Pre-pooing also makes hair easier to detangle, which results in less breakage when it’s combed. The night before wash day, or sometimes just 15-30 minutes prior to jumping in the shower, I’ll apply a ton of coconut oil and don a plastic shower cap. I can’t even describe to you the wonderful effect this simple step has. Try it and thank me later!