Q: Nikki, I have so many hair products, I’m really quite ashamed. How can I find products that work for me without accumulating more than I need? And what in the world am I to do with all these pomades and creams in my cabinet? Help!

A: Hello. My name is Nikki Walton and I’m a “product junkie.” 

If you’re a member of the online natural hair community, then real recognize real. It’s quite common and affects natural newbies and vets alike. For those of you not in the know, a product junkie (or PJ) is someone who compulsively purchases any and all hair care products in sight and is forever on a mission to find the next best thing.

Want to know if you’re a PJ? Here are a few telltale signs:

• Your bathroom is spilling over with half-used bottles and unopened and dusty jars of hair care products.
• If after reading one too many positive online reviews, you’re headed to the store to acquire that product, despite the late hour or inclement weather.
• If you often find yourself in the hair care aisle, for hours, despite your best efforts to shop for food.

Although one can run into some monetary and even relationship issues in the throes of PJ-ism, there are several benefits: (1) you’re a resource for the naturals in your circle, saving them time and money (2) natural hair care can at times, feel like an experiment, and trying new product combinations and ingredients keeps you on the cutting edge, and (3) it’s fun!

Below, find some tips to keep your product testing orderly and productive.

1. Process of Elimination: Yeah, the product testing process doesn’t work if you try everything at once. I’m definitely guilty of this. Please do your best to try one new product at a time so you can determine if it really works.

2. Take notes: Keep a journal and track your progress, as well as product successes and failures. This will help you with the above tip — keeping you on top of what worked beautifully and what failed epically. Also, eyeball those ingredients. You’ll see a pattern begin to take shape — products that consistently work for you will have similar ingredients. With this knowledge you can target, and even predict, the products that your hair will love.

3. Double duty: Look for products with multiple purposes. It’ll not only save you time on wash day, but your wallet too. I love stumbling upon a moisturizing and slippery leave-in conditioner that just so happens to hold my hair as well. The beauty of finding a rinse-out conditioner that works triple-duty as a deep conditioner or leave-in is oh-so-sweet. Give it time! Give yourself two to three weeks to determine if a product, product combo or regimen is working for you. Remember, only introduce one new product at a time.

4. Don’t be wasteful: To keep from tossing out woefully disappointing hair conditioners, I’ve been known to use them as shaving cream and at times, body gel. You’d be surprised at the effectiveness — many conditioners contain moisturizing agents and surfactants. Also, when trying to get that elusive last little bit of thick conditioner out of the bottom of the bottle, either cut that joint open or hold the opening under the shower stream for a second to allow some warm water in, seal it off with the palm of your hand, and give the bottle a shake with the other.  This action cuts the thick consistency and allows the rest of the product to be easily removed and greatly enjoyed as the runnier consistency makes for a slippier (is that a word?) experience. You can also gift your unwanted bounty to your curlfriends, or take them to the next meet-up in your area to swap it out! 

God Speed and Happy Product Shopping!

Nik

Q: I’m anxious to try bold highlights—think bright blue or purple—but I don’t want to use chalk or any chemical dyes in my hair.  Any suggestions?

A:   Blogger FroEnvy shared the genius idea of using cream eye shadows to experiment with hair color rather than chalking, a method that uses colored chalk to dye the hair.  My first thought was, “This is so happening!”  Unlike chalking, which I’m quite sure wasn’t developed with us curly girls in mind, there’s no abrasive rubbing of the wet cuticle and no flat ironing to set the color.  You simply just slick on a little cream shadow and BAM— instant #RockStar.

From my experience, this is a really dope and easy way to rock ratchet and unnatural, yet trendy colors.  So far, my favorite color to wear is blue (pictured above) using Maybelline’s Color Tattoo Eyeshadow.  I simply use my fingernail to scrape a little of the eye shadow from the container, emulsify it between my thumb and forefinger and apply it to my dry hair, one curl at a time. I stick to highlights, focusing on the tips (think ombre) and only hit four or five curls. It wears for the duration of the style although around day three, it’s a bit less vibrant.

When you’re ready to remove the color, the night before wash day, rub coconut oil on the color to remove much of the pigment. When you wash your hair, any color that’s left will be removed.  There’s no need for harsh clarifying shampoos, as one with the detergent cocobetaine will suffice.

Q: I know you love using henna in your hair but I saw on your blog that you also have used Cassia. I’m curious about henna but there are a few things that have me nervous about taking the plunge to try it, one of them is the coloring effects. I know Cassia is supposed to be similar without altering hair color. Can you share your experience with Cassia?

A: I tried cassia about 4 times before moving on to henna. Initially, like you, I was afraid of the red color, especially since I had a considerable amount of brown highlights throughout- I wasn’t going for “fire engine red.”

Again, henna red is translucent. I liken it to coloring on a black (or brown) sheet of construction paper with a reddish-orange crayon. In most lighting, the paper sill looks black, just shinier. However, if you hold it just right under the light, or step outside, you can see the hint of color. It’s the same with my hair. Indoors, the hair is a shiny, rich, black, but outside it looks as if I did an auburn rinse. For my brown haired curlies, your hair will appear auburn, no matter the lighting. So, if you’re still reluctant about that red tint, Cassia may be the answer.

Cassia is similar to henna… although it’s a different plant altogether, it has some of the same conditioning effects, sans color. Like henna, cassia strengthens the hair shaft, improves overall health, and adds lots of shine. It doesn’t, however, reduce shrinkage or significantly thicken the hair up. Its effects are far more fleeting- lasting at the most 1-2 weeks. The mixing, application, and rinsing process is a bit less taxing as well. For starters, you don’t have to wear gloves! Also, you only have to leave it in for 30 minutes to get the conditioning effects. Since you’re not worried about dye release, you can mix in everything but the kitchen sink- I used to mix in oils, conditioner and honey. Some blonde and gray haired ladies use Cassia for the slight yellow tint that it gives off. If you have dark hair, you don’t have to worry about this effect.

I left cassia for henna for one reason- I wanted bigger hair. I didn’t, and still don’t mind the red. You’re going to get improved hair health with both cassia and henna, but henna’s effects will last upwards of 3-4 weeks, depending on how often you wash.

In my honest opinion, Cassia is just a REALLY good conditioning treatment.

Good luck!

Q: What are your tips for the perfect twist-out?

A: I’ve been getting magnificent twist-outs and twist-and-curls as of late and aside from the styling product, I believe my technique is very important. Below, I share my 5 tips for chunky twist-out success!

• For chunky results, it’s best to twist on damp, not soaking wet hair. Once you get out of the shower, gently wring out any excess water and plop with a microfiber towel for five minutes. Then apply your leave-in throughout and apply your styler as you twist.
• Make sure the twists are smooth! I do this two ways. Since my hair is already detangled from the shower, I apply my styler (a pea sized amount per twist, please be light handed!) in a downward smoothing motion, with both hands and then evenly distribute the product with a comb. The comb’s teeth are neither wide, nor close together, and they help to further smooth the hair prior to twisting.
• Remove the twists once they are completely dry. I cheat sometimes and take them down while the roots are still wet, but my hair shrinks a bit and sometimes, the curls can become piece-y. For chunky results, leave your twists in until they are 100% dry. I usually air dry overnight. I also sleep with a satin scarf around my crown to hold down any frizzies that may pop up during the night.
• Create large twists— I create 13-14 twists total— four in the back, two above each ear, four in the front (framing my face) and one at the crown.  This will give you chunkier, bigger waves and curls than medium sized twists.
• Fluff carefully. Using your oiled up fingers like a comb, gently rake and massage the roots.  Next rake your open fingers from the roots, halfway down your hair. This will break up the thick waves and create a more natural look.

Products that I use are Davines Shelter as a leave-in and Ouidad’s new Hydrafusion styling cream. I am careful to be light handed with both products, and the results? Shiny, soft, airy, moisturized hair with no crunchiness or flakes.

I hope that helps!

Q: What are your suggestions for dry ends?

A: If your ends are damaged — not just dry and crispy, but split or broken — you should get a trim, ASAP. This will improve the overall health and appearance of your hair, and make detangling and styling easier, plus, you’ll feel motivated to care for your freshly trimmed ends. To prevent dryness and the resulting damage, try the following:

1. Moisturize: On an as-needed basis (usually every two to four days), apply water and/or a water-based, leave-in conditioner. You don’t need much, just be sure to evenly distribute. You know it’s water-based because ‘aqua’ will be the first ingredient!

2. Seal: Next, apply a thin layer of oil, butter, or a silicone-based serum to seal in the moisture from the water and conditioner.

3. Hide: Still experiencing dry crunchy ends? Prevent them from drying out by rocking protective styles like buns and pin-ups. If you’re not into the protective styling thing, try drying your hair in a stretched state (twists, braids, etc.) — your hair will hold on to more moisture for longer.

4. Deep Treatments: If you really want to see some length retention, engage in a hardcore deep-conditioning routine. My personal favorites right now are Curl Junkie Rehab, Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment, MyHoneyChild’s Olive You and Davines MoMo. They’re all incredibly moisturizing and extra slippery! Also, always follow up a trim with a deep treatment, or the first two steps above.

Remember that even without heat and color damage, our ends are very delicate — they’re the oldest part of the hair and have been exposed to the wear and tear of styling and the elements. Always be mindful of how you handle your hair today, because you’ll still be feeling the effects of it years from now!

Q: I saw a picture of you on your blog recently with huge, fluffy hair! It looked a lot fuller than usual and I was wondering, how did you get so much volume?

A: By now y’all know I’m a “big hair girl.” I want “block your view,” “disrespect your personal space” big hair. But sadly, I wasn’t blessed with those genes. I have very fine strands with moderate density, but I’ve learned techniques to create one heck of an optical illusion. To achieve the voluminous look in the picture above, I have to start with stretched hair. It can be stretched from a previous roller set, twist or braid-out or even a bun. But since I was in a crunch, I used the Tension Blow Dry Method.

How To Tension Blow Dry:

1. Blot excess moisture and allow hair to air dry for 15 minutes prior to starting. Blow drying wet hair can lead to loss of elasticity and in the long run, breakage.

2. Keep the heat setting as low as possible and hold the nozzle a few inches away from the hair. Remember to use a heat protectant!

3. Section hair as you normally would and work with one small section at a time. Grab a section of detangled, damp and moisturized hair and gently pull it straight with one hand while blasting the roots with warm air in a downward angle. It gently stretches the hair without the manipulation of a comb or brush.

The result for me, is a stretched out, frizzy looking wash & go. Next, I section my hair again, starting at the nape, and apply my styler of choice, flat twist the root and two-strand twist the length. I usually create 8-15 twists… the fewer twists, the larger and more voluminous the results. I let it air dry completely and then rake my fingers through the definition to give the illusion of more hair and there you have it. Unfortunately, this style only lasts for two days before I have to re-twist. But luckily, I can go two weeks without having to wash and start anew. It’s a great option for those that are short on time and want to maximize and show off their hard-earned length and volume.

The products I used for the above results:

• Davines Shelter Leave-in (for moisturizer and heat protectant)

TIGI Totally Baked Merigue + Davines Beautifying Potion to style

Q: I see a million oils floating around on the hair boards and don’t know which to try first. What’s your favorite oil Nikki?

A: May I share two? I’m in love with Argan oil and Castor oil. I’ve used them together, alone, as a pre-poo, for warm oil treatments, as a leave-in on wet hair to seal, on my dry ends and length, even as a styler… all with great success. For the most part, an oil, is an oil, is an oil. But for me and my finicky hair, these two were truly a cut above the rest.

Argan oil has been all the rage as of late, and I must say… I get it. Argan oil leaves my hair, even the rough old ends, (uncharacteristically silky) smooth, soft and strong. It cuts my frizz tremendously and provides intense shine. I never get the ‘crunch factor’ like I do with coconut oil, and it seems to help keep my hair stretched, while oils like jojoba curl it back up. According to Curl Chemist Tonya Mckay, “…when Argan oil is incorporated into a hair conditioner or styling product, the monounsaturated fatty acid component (oleic) and the medium chain saturated fatty acids are able to penetrate the cuticle, which helps increase the suppleness and elasticity of the hair. The polyunsaturated fatty acid remains on the surface of the hair, where it is able to provide emollience and softness.”

Argan oil is expensive as hell because of difficult production, but I honestly feel, especially with its ability to penetrate the cuticle, that it’s worth the splurge. Plus, cutting it with other oils will help it stretch! Which brings me to my other boo, Castor oil.

Castor oil is an excellent emollient and humectant for hair. It’s often used (with anecdotal evidence) as a treatment for thinning hair and prevents dry scalp. Also, its antifungal properties help you maintain a healthy scalp. With continued and frequent use, Castor oil has left me with thicker looking, soft, shiny dark hair. It’s a bit too thick to be used alone, but cut with another oil, it can do some amazing things!

My Holy Grail mix includes both Argan and Castor oil. To create the mix, I secure a cheap, plastic, color applicator bottle from Sally’s Beauty Supply and score the oils from Whole Foods. I’m no mixtress, so please excuse my informal measurements! I pour in the castor oil and then slowly mix in the argan oil until it reaches the consistency of a hair serum (not too thick, not too runny). It usually ends up being 1:1. That’s it! I use this mix for everything, even a little on my skin from time to time. Also, the small applicator tip is great if you want to apply the oil directly to your scalp for a growth stimulating massage! As always, remember that every hair product and technique is not for every curly. You won’t know what works for you until you try it! Hopefully my mix will give you a solid starting point and you can branch out from there!